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Strings and things
As your guitar or bass will be very little use without a string
or two, we will make the areas related to the strings our first
stop for design considerations. We'll make the assumption that you
know how many strings you're going to want, so now onto the other
considerations around them. |
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Scale Length
The first thing to consider is scale length. Scale length will affect
firstly the sustain (as a string will need to be tensioned more
on a longer scale instrument to achieve the same pitch). The scale
length can also affect playability and feel - due to differing string
tensions but also simply because the you may need to stretch your
fingers more on a longer scale length.
As is often the case, it may be useful here to look to a guitar
that you already like to feel of for guidance. For reference, some
of the common scale lengths in use are listed below
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| Guitar |
Scale (inches)
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Scale (mm)
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| Gibson Les Paul / SG |
24.75
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629
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| Fender Stratocaster / Telecaster |
25.5
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648
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| Fender Mustang / Jaguar |
24
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610
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| Paul Reed Smith |
25
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635
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| Fender Precision Bass and Jazz Bass |
34
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864
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| Gibson EBO Bass |
30.5
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775
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| Rickenbacker 4001 Bass |
32.5
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825
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Scale length is often a matter of preference more
than anything else. If you have small hands for instance, you might
prefer a shorter scale. Many people favour the PRS scale length
of 25 inches for guitars. Its sort of a 'best of both worlds' between
Gibson and Fender. Some find the shorter bass scales easier to play
although many bassists prefer a longer scale which usually gives
better sustain and focus too. |
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How many frets?
Somewhere between twenty one and twenty four is usual for a guitar
- between twenty and twenty four for a bass. Fender guitars are
generally twenty one fret instruments (the vintage ones anyway)
while the Jazz and Precision basses are twenty fretters (as are
many Gibson basses). Gibson guitars like the Les Paul and SG most
often had twenty two frets.
It's worth considering the number of frets - a two octave fingerboard
can be very nice, but in some designs the twenty fourth fret may
be almost impossible to reach. This can be teased out in the design
phase, but it is worth giving some thought to before going too far.
Another factor to consider if you want a two octave fretboard is
that the neck pickups on some guitars are placed in a position that
the 24th fret would occupy (placing pickups in the octave positions
is tonally preferable). If you want a twenty four fret neck on a
Les Paul or Tele for instance, there will be subtle differences
in the sound of the neck pickup when compared to a standard instrument.
The type and size of fret wire is usually down to the individual
musician. This can be decided during planning.
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Neck dimensions and feel
Another item that is fairly subjective. Its mostly down to preference
although hardware and design choices such as bridge type and neck-to-body
join will make a difference. This will be pinned down more fully
in the design phase.
I often find it useful if a client can bring in an instrument with
a feel that they like. This is often a lot easier than trying to
verbally explain what is, at the end of the day, a feeling. |
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